Most of this job happens in somebody's living room with the homeowner watching. You measure windows, mount brackets into whatever the wall turns out to be, and hang blinds, shades and shutters so they sit level and run smoothly. The day below follows an installer working for a window covering dealer that sells to homeowners and a few builders.
You pull the day's orders from the warehouse shelf and open each carton before it goes in the van. You're checking the label against the work order: room, window, mount type, color, control side. A cord lift that should have been cordless, or a left-hand control that should be right, is far easier to catch here than on a ladder in someone's bedroom.
The first stop is a finished house where the owners haven't moved in yet. You lay drop cloths, set out each blind under the window it belongs to, and start mounting. Inside mounts go up in the window frame, so you check the depth first and find out whether the header is wood, drywall corner bead or metal. You shoot a laser line across a bank of windows so the headrails line up, then drive screws with an impact driver on a low clutch setting.
One of the cellular shades for the primary bedroom is too narrow and leaves a light gap on both sides. The measure sheet says it was ordered with an inside deduction on a window that should have been an outside mount. You photograph the frame and the tape, text the office, and hang it anyway so the room has some privacy until the remake arrives. Then you explain it to the homeowner plainly, without blaming the person who measured.
After lunch in the van, you meet a designer at a condo to measure for motorized roller shades. You measure each window at the top, middle and bottom for width and on both sides for height, record the smallest number for inside mounts, and note obstructions like window cranks, alarm sensors and tile returns. You also find where power can reach each window, because a hardwired motor needs a junction box that an electrician has to install before you come back.
The last stop is a repair: a wood blind with a broken lift cord and a slat that won't tilt. You restring it on the homeowner's dining table, test it a few times, and show them how to lift it without yanking one side. Back at the shop you drop off the damaged carton, update the work orders in the scheduling app and load tomorrow's first job.
Hanging a blind is quick once you've done a few hundred. Measuring is where money gets lost. A custom shade is built to the fraction you wrote down, and most manufacturers won't take it back if the number was wrong. Installers who measure carefully get trusted with the bigger jobs, the motorized projects and the designer accounts. Installers who guess end up doing remakes on their own time, and the office notices.
The other half of the skill is reading a wall. Plaster cracks if you drill it wrong. Tile needs a glass and tile bit and a slow start. Metal window frames in high-rise condos want self-tapping screws. Hollow drywall above a patio door can't hold a heavy wood blind without anchors or a mounting board. You learn most of this by ruining something small early on, so ask whoever trains you to let you watch them handle each wall type first.
This is the most common start. You carry cartons, hold the other end of long headrails and watch how an experienced installer handles each wall. Within a season or so you're usually doing easy jobs alone.
Handymen, painters, closet installers and trim carpenters pick this up fast because they already own the tools and know how to find a stud. The new part is learning each manufacturer's brackets and the product lines your dealer sells.
Some people start cutting blinds to size in a home improvement store, then move to an install company that serves that store. You'll already know the product names and customer questions, which shortens the training.
It depends where you work. Many areas don't ask for anything specific to window coverings, but some states and cities want a contractor or home improvement registration for anyone paid to work in a home, and some employers ask for a clean driving record because you'll drive a company van. Hardwiring a motorized shade is electrical work, which usually means a licensed electrician. Rules vary by state and city, so check with your local licensing office before you work on your own.
Titles say blinds, but most installers hang whatever the dealer sells: roller shades, cellular shades, Roman shades, wood and faux wood blinds, verticals, drapery hardware and plantation shutters. Shutters and motorized shades take the longest to learn and tend to go to the more experienced people on the team.
Plenty of installers work as subcontractors for several dealers and get paid per window or per job instead of by the hour. That gives you control over your schedule, but you supply your own van, insurance and tools, and you eat the cost of return trips. Most people work for one dealer first and go independent once they have steady contacts.
HeroApply applies to them for you, so you can keep doing the job you have.